Setenil de las Bodegas, Spain: A Complete Guide to Visiting

Setenil de las Bodegas is one of the most unique and interesting towns in Spain. It’s located within a gorge, and many of the shops, restaurants and houses are built into the rock that forms it.

It’s a small town, with only around 3,000 residents, and many of them live inside cave houses, with the rock helping to keep them cool during the hot summer months.

I visited Setenil de las Bodegas last year, and nothing could have prepared me for just how amazing it is in real life. If you think it looks good in pictures, it’s a million times better in person.

In this guide I’ll take you through everything you need to know about visiting Setenil de Las Bodegas, including how to get there, the best time to visit, the best things to do there, and where I’d recommend staying.

A woman walks down a sunlit street in Setenil de las Bodegas, Spain, where whitewashed buildings are built directly into massive rock overhangs. Rows of closed umbrellas line the cafes, creating a peaceful and unique atmosphere under the natural rock canopy.

How to get to Setenil de las Bodegas

Closest airports

The closest major airports to Setenil de las Bodegas are Málaga airport and Seville airport. Both are around a 1.5 hour drive away.

So if you can drive, it doesn’t really matter which airport you fly into as the distance is pretty much the same.

I’d really recommend hiring a car for your trip to Setenil de Las Bodegas. Andalusia is a beautiful region with loads of towns to see, and having a car gives you more flexibility to explore them at your own pace.

I booked my hire car through Discover Cars. They compare the costs of loads of different providers to help you find the cheapest option for your trip.

A cluster of whitewashed buildings in Setenil de las Bodegas, Spain, stacked along a hillside under a bright blue sky. The homes' tiled roofs and simple architectural details create a picturesque, sunlit scene characteristic of this Andalusian village.

Public transport

If you don’t drive, I’d suggest flying into Málaga over Seville, as the route via public transport is shorter.

From Málaga airport, you’ll need to take a taxi to Málaga city centre. There, you can catch a train or a bus to Ronda, followed by a bus or taxi to Setenil de las Bodegas. The total journey time is around 2 – 3.5 hours.

From Seville airport, you’ll need to take a taxi to Seville city centre, followed by a train to Ronda, and a bus or taxi to Setenil de las Bodegas. The total journey time is around 3.5 – 4 hours.

Guided tour

Public transport can be unreliable, especially if you’re visiting in the off peak months, so if you don’t have a car, I’d recommend booking a guided tour.

With this tour you’ll get to visit both Setenil de las Bodegas and Ronda, which is another must see in the area.

A narrow street in Setenil de las Bodegas, Spain, lined with whitewashed buildings adorned with colorful banners and flags for a local celebration. The street is paved with stone, winding gently, with balconies and arched doorways adding to the charm of this picturesque village.

Parking in Setenil de las Bodegas

I parked at Los Caños Parking on my visit to Setenil de las Bodegas. It’s just a short walk from the centre of town, and it costs €1.50 per hour.

There’s also free parking at Jaboneria Street Parking, and on the roads throughout the town, but it can be quite tricky to park there as the roads are very narrow, so you’ll often be trying to cram your car into a space whilst cars behind you are waiting to get past.

I don’t like that kind of pressure so I prefer to stick to designated car parks!

Things to do in Setenil de las Bodegas

Setenil de las Bodegas is a pretty small place, with only around 3,000 residents, but there’s still plenty to see and explore.

The two main streets here are Calle Cuevas del Sol, meaning Street of the Caves of the Sun, and Calle Cuevas de la Sombra, meaning Street of the Caves of the Shade.

They run parallel to each other in the centre of Setenil de las Bodegas, separated by the Rio Trejo.

Calle Cuevas del Sol

Calle Cuevas del Sol is the most popular place in Setenil de las Bodegas. It has a large rock overhang that partially covers the street, and built into the rock are restaurants, bars and shops.

The clue is in the name that this street gets a lot of sunshine so it’s the perfect place to enjoy a leisurely drink. The bars down here have outdoor seating so you can sit and watch the world go by in this incredible setting.

A woman walks along a peaceful street in Setenil de las Bodegas, Spain, where whitewashed buildings sit beneath a dramatic rock overhang. Closed umbrellas line the outdoor seating areas of cafes, while lush greenery cascades down the rock face, blending nature with architecture. — Calle Cuevas del Sol

Calle Cuevas de la Sombra

On Calle Cuevas de la Sombra, the rock covers the road, keeping it constantly in the shade.

This street was quieter than Calle Cuevas del Sol (probably because of the lack of sun) but I thought it was even more magical. You really get the feeling of being inside a cave here.

A narrow street in Setenil de las Bodegas, Spain, lined with whitewashed buildings featuring small balconies and vibrant decorations. The street is overshadowed by a massive natural rock formation, creating a striking blend of human architecture and nature. — Calle Cuevas de la Sombra

Nazari Castle

The remains of this 12th-century castle are a must visit in Setenil de las Bodegas. It was built by the Moors and was once a sprawling castle with 40 towers, although only one still stands today.

Even if you don’t go inside the castle, there’s incredible views over the town from up here.

Best time to visit Setenil de las Bodegas

Time of year

I’d recommend visiting Setenil de las Bodegas during the off peak travel months, between January-April, or October-December.

Its location in the south of Spain means that it can often reach 38°C during summer, which is way too hot to be doing anything other than lying by a pool.

But in shoulder season, the weather is perfect for walking around and exploring – temperatures still reach 18°C in December!

I visited Setenil de las Bodegas in the middle of October and had beautiful sunshine. It was so warm I didn’t even need a jacket (as you can see from the photos)!

A charming café with outdoor seating shaded by white awnings and a vibrant display of fuchsia bougainvillea in full bloom. People sit at tables enjoying drinks, while the building’s white façade and decorative signage add to the picturesque and inviting atmosphere.

Time of day

Although Setenil de las Bodegas is only home to less than 3,000 people, it’s really popular with tourists, and as it’s only small, it can feel crowded very quickly.

I actually visited Setenil de las Bodegas twice during my trip to Andalusia. The first time was late afternoon and the town was packed with people as all of the bus tours had arrived.

So I came back early the next morning to enjoy it without the crowds and take some photographs.

I’d recommend arriving in the morning so you can explore the town at your own pace, but make sure you stay for a while to experience the atmosphere when there’s lots of people around – it completely changes the vibe!

Outdoor seating at a café in Setenil de las Bodegas, Spain, situated beneath a dramatic overhanging rock formation. The natural rock ceiling towers above whitewashed buildings, creating a cozy yet striking setting for diners enjoying their meals. — Setenil de las Bodegas at 10am

A bustling street in Setenil de las Bodegas, with locals and visitors gathering under an enormous rock overhang. White umbrellas and tables line the area, blending the charm of human architecture with the rugged beauty of the natural stone. — Setenil de las Bodegas at 4pm

Even in the busiest parts of the day, if you step away from the centre of town you’ll find quieter streets that are just as beautiful.

A woman walks down a quiet street in Setenil de las Bodegas, Spain, with whitewashed buildings tucked under a massive rock overhang. The sunlight casts dramatic shadows on the path, while greenery adds a touch of life to the scene.

A woman strolls along a curved stone wall pathway in Setenil de las Bodegas, surrounded by towering rock cliffs and white buildings. The unique blend of natural rock formations and architecture highlights the charm of this Andalusian village.

Where to stay

If you want to stay in Setenil de las Bodegas itself, you HAVE to stay in a cave house. There’s so many to choose from and it’s such a unique experience that will make your trip even more memorable.

My top pick is Moon Cave House. It’s beautifully decorated, has incredible reviews, and is in a prime location just a 5 minute walk from Calle Cuevas del Sol.

If you’re looking for a hotel with more amenities, I’d really recommend La Zambra, which is where I stayed on my trip.

A tranquil garden featuring vibrant pink wildflowers, tall cypress trees, and a white building with arched windows under a clear blue sky. The scene is complemented by a stone structure and lush greenery, creating a peaceful, sunlit setting.

It’s a 1.5 hour drive from Setenil de las Bodegas, and makes a great base for exploring the area.

The hotel has 4 restaurants and bars, a large outdoor pool, spa and a gym. The rooms are light, modern and airy, and the service was brilliant.

But what I loved most about this hotel was its setting. You’re surrounded by greenery here, the hotel has incredible views in every direction. And the gardens of the hotel are just as beautiful.

Bright pink flowers blossomed around the grounds and it created a really peaceful environment that made me feel so relaxed as I walked around the hotel.

Final thoughts

Setenil de las Bodegas is one of Spain’s hidden gems, and one of the most unique places I’ve visited.

Photos really don’t do this town justice, you’ll be absolutely blown away when you see it in person!

The narrow streets and houses that jolt out of the rock feel like something from a storybook, and I guarantee this is a place you’ll be talking about for years to come.